Of Dreams,
Ditches, and Bubbles
Richard Mojena and Cynthia Mello
(Original
article appeared in Krogen Cruisers Newsletter, February, 2001, pp. 11-14)
We LOVE that
boat. What is it? She was moored in Oak Bluffs, Marthas
Vineyard. It was 1988 and we were land-bound
and boat-less. Actually, we had never even
owned a boat. Sure, we had sailed with
friends for years, but we werent boaters, not by a long shot. Two years later we find ourselves tied to a palm
tree on one end, gazing out in wonderment at the other
from the afterdeck of a
45-foot houseboat on the surface of Silver Glen Spring, on the St. Johns River. Its early November, its a warm spell, and we have the place to ourselves. Three days in that comfortable box, the
best-tasting food we had ever cooked, thundering through the tropical underbrush, diving
the warm, crystal-clear waters, chasing down the odd cockroach, and several assorted,
mutually-resolved crises later, all crystallized it for us:
Ya know
this aint a bad way to live.
Two days later were
mooching a cousins condo in one of those Long-Boat-Key marina and golfing complexes. And there she was again
that same hull. We practically ran to the marina office. What kind of boat is that? Shes a Krogen. A what!? A
Kadey Krogen 42. We were stunned
Cynthia had palled around with Kim Krogen during Newports Americas Cup glory
days. To be more accurate, Cynthias
husband left to marry Kim, on his way to the third of four marriages
yet, Cynthia
and Kim forged a deep bond
but were saving that story for our pulp-faction
efforts. Cynthia knew that Kims
father was a naval architect and boat builder, but really had no idea what we had here. Cynthias son Josh played with Kims
visiting brother, Kurt, during those lazy, seaside summer days that kids enjoy best.
Do you believe our
luck? Were having lunch with Kim in
Miami. Kim, can we go to the boat yard
and, you know, get the tour, go inside one of these?
Sure, Ill set it up with Dad.
Jim was gracious, patient with the Greenhorns.
And we got one heck of a tour: First
the office, then the yard, a wide-body in its final prep stages, and finally Jims
own Manatee. We were hooked on the 42. Can we ever afford one of these?
In late 1992 we bought an
Albin 34, cruised and lived on her for seven glorious summers, making our mistakes,
learning the ropes. In 1999, after countless
hours researching the Internet, talking to brokers, and corresponding invaluably with
Grant Breining by email, we bit the bullet in March, 2000, culminating life-changing,
pre-retirement transactions: Sold the house
of 30 years, sold the Albin, bought THE DREAM BOAT, KK42 Sasha, from Jim and
Kay Peterson in North Palm Beach (thanks to Dick Jurgensen on Orion II for the
lead), packed every possible nook and orifice in the 16-year-old Saab for its last trip,
including our cabin boy, an eighteen-month-old Chihuahua, Benito
Beni Juarez.
The new boat
and trip back to Rhode Island presented intimidating prospects. The move up from an Albin 34 to a KK42 is
semi-quantum. This baby is big. This aint just a coastal cruise of
several days over familiar waters. So
much to do learning new systems, starting the changeover in safety, electrical, and
navigation systems from a dock boat to a cruising boat.
We had three weeks to get the boat ready with new radar, gps, nav software on the
Dell, and other fixes and refits either confirmed or uncovered by our surveyor, Adrian
Volney, out of Sarasota. And then there were
the get-comfortable hours with practice maneuvers, equipment checks, poring over charts,
books, and equipment manuals, among these Jim Petersons own extensive system notes,
Grant and Astaar Breinings Chuggin Along, Skipper Bobs Anchorages
Along the Intracoastal Waterway, the Northern Waterway Guide, John and Leslie
Kettlewells The Intracoastal Waterway Chartbook, Jan and Bill Moellers The
Intracoastal Waterway, and various Embassy guides and chartbooks.
And then
Beni died in a tragic, freak accident. What
can we say. It enveloped our uncontained
excitement with profound sadness and guilt. It
felt like losing a child must feel. Not that
its comparable, we do have grown
children, but its hard to imagine a more intense, devastating experience. We buried him in a beautiful island park and
marked the deep, sandy grave with a vibrantly-live gardenia shrub.
And so we moved
on
and what a move it was! North Palm
to Wickford in 25 cruising days over 34 total days and 1464 nautical miles. From the ships log:
SYNOPSIS
Complex (navigation, boat handling at
bridges & marinas, communications, planning), intense trip on one-month schedule. Typical cruising day: Up 4:30-6:00, underway
within hour, motor 6-10 hours, into marina or anchorage before dark, plan next days
leg (1-2 hours), maybe nap, eat, maybe repairs/maintenance, bed. FL to VA serpentine rivers and creeks, shallow,
shoaled, strong currents & tides, with wide sounds subject to steep waves,
thunderstorms
but also beautiful, remote, peaceful sections with playful dolphins
and many seabirds. Chesapeake and Delaware
Bays potential severe squalls. Offshore in NJ
subject to high seas and lee shore, followed by intensity (and excitement) of passaging
through NYC. LI sound to home easy. Cruising days broken up by layovers in attractive
cities/towns, but not restful playing tourist and stuffing ourselves in fine restaurants:
St Augustine, Savannah, Beaufort, Charleston, Myrtle Beach, Annapolis, Atlantic City.
TRIP STATS
Main engine hours
1564
216 trip
Generator hours
1907
97 trip
Fuel
130/125g (P/S) 445 trip
Efficiency
3.3 mpg
(includes gen)
2.1 g/hr
Along the way
we sighted three KK42s that we could not hail on the radio, but did have long,
informative, and delightful conversations with fellow Krogenites Bill Heidrich aboard
Traveller and Bob Bean on Alexander.
Yes, we did
ground the bow just north of Charleston, but backed off easily enough. Richard spaced it, thinking he was looking at a
Course Up display that he had changed into a North Up.
Dont leave home without it: Nobeltecs
Navigation Suite (or other navigation software) interfaced to a differential GPS
considerably reduces the likelihood of straying into shallows and other obstacles.
The security of
the home slip in Wickford felt good, not to mention the relief of getting back without
sinking or otherwise damaging our new year-round home, now renamed Sinterra
thanks to Joshs take on Without-land.
Our first summer aboard disappeared fast, with refits, redecorations,
three-steps-forward-two-steps-back activities, some local cruising, and showing off the
boat to family, friends, and interested strays. Among
the latter are new Krogenites Jack and Evie Collard, who as of this writing are bringing
their just-purchased KK42 from Fort Myers to Georgia, laying over until the Spring
Migration back North. And
we have new
cabin boy Eduardo Eddie Juarez.
And then came
Winter
Non-boating acquaintances ask: Just what do you do all day on a boat? The response goes something like: Just what do you do at home all day? Actually, there are some differences. We dont cover homes in plastic, unless
were chasing down termites. On boats,
we have to keep water taps open when temperatures fall below freezing, unless we relish
thawing the docks water feed hose with boiling water or dangerous heating
appliances. Houses dont have brown
juice flowing out of their pores from condensation in strange places. Keep the inner spaces heated!
And, oh yes, we
do have to count our amps. We slept six over
Thanksgiving and fried both ends of the two 30A power cables feeding into the 50A
Y-adapter. These can be serious sources of
fires, especially at the boat inlets. The
aft circuit lives on the amp-edge, falling off a cliff if a 750W space heater competes
with simultaneous demands from the Sub-Zeros, hot water heater, inverter, genset charger,
and microwave or toaster oven. The circuit
breakers protect the boats internal circuits, but not the outside hookups. And while the reverse-cycle air worked great
until the harbors water temperature plunged below 45, the manipulation of appliances
required the dexterity of Houdini.
So, heres
how we stand mano a mano with what looks like a serious Winter ahead. The first line of defense is the shrink wrap that
covers the entire boat. Its like we
live in a fancy tent, but its bright and not claustrophobic (Richard is a bit phobic
here and has no problem, so far). The plastic
is translucent, has strategically placed clear zippered windows, and promotes a greenhouse
effect at 55-70 degrees inside the afterdeck, on sunny days with ambient temperatures of
10-30 degrees. The two sleeping cabins
are easily heated to 65-70 degrees by small electric space heaters at their low 750W
settings. The forward circuit has low
amperage demands, meaning that its OK to run these heaters simultaneously, or one or
the other when the washer/dryer is operating.
Two heaters
live in the main cabin (heating the pilot house by default), although just one is required
at any one time: an electric space heater,
with its own #12 outside extension cord running to a separate 30A dock box with a 30/15A
adapter; a catalytic propane space heater, fed from a 20lb tank on the dock. We scoured the RV Internet discussion sites
and came up with the catalytic heater of choice: Olympian.
These heaters can be placed on floors or mounted to bulkheads, dont require
venting, are silent, cool to the touch, mostly give off radiant heat, and operate at low
temperatures that generate heat by the catalytic reaction of propane flowing over
platinum. This flameless process does not
create carbon monoxide directly, although it can if oxygen is depleted in the space. We crack the galley port, a saloon window, and a
pilot house door to supply the necessary oxygen
and have propane and carbon monoxide
sniffers on board. The 8000Btu model Wave 8
cost under $300 at campingworld.com. The
main cabins electric space heater is a LifeTime 5200Btu ceramic, bought at West
Marine for about $80. This heater bypasses
the boats AC system by directly connecting to the dock, thereby giving up
circuit-breaker protection on the boat, although the thick 100 extension cord
runs cool and the heater itself has overheat safety protection. As an additional precaution, no heaters are run
while were away. Over eight-hour or so
periods the temperature drop has not exceeded 15 degrees.
After one month of this setup, the power line connections look good, the circuit
breakers are behaving perfectly, and were toasty enough.
And the engine
room? We cant read the handy
thermometer tethered by a line through the starboard scupper because its solid ice
out there, so lets figure something a bit north of 32 degrees kissing the cored
hull. The Holy Place reads 45 degrees,
somewhat kept aloft by heat from the chargers, batteries, and hot water heater.
Supplementary heat in that space might be needed sometime this winter? For added propane-explosion safety, an ignition
protected heater such as those put out by BoatSafe would be best.
We also
considered dropping a 25 gal water tank into the engine room for the winter and attaching
the air conditioning inlet and outlet hoses to this tank.
We know a trawler owner who was happy with this arrangement, although it does
require heating the engine room to 55 or so. For
him it worked nicely because already-installed engine block heaters kept the engine room
at the required temperature.
A somewhat more
elaborate alternative it to install propane or diesel cabin heaters such as those put out
by Force10 or Dickinson. The larger units run
$600-700, and do require the usual venting accessories, fuel lines, and pump.
The ideal
solution for a northern boat would be a diesel central heating system such as those put
out by Webasto or Espar. (See the article in
the May/June 2000 issue of Passagemaker and the letter by Bob Bean and Cynthia
Hammer in the July/Aug issue.) An installer
for Espar came by to scope the boat. After
two hours of crawling around and brainstorming the duct layout, he concluded it was
difficult but do-able (weve seen one on another KK42), but it would set us back
about $4700 with a do-it-yourself installation or $7700 installed. With just two winters left aboard before
retirement and images of more congenial climes in Florida, the Bahamas, and the Caribbean
dancing in our heads, we respectfully declined.
Meanwhile, if
you get up to Narragansett Bay, stop by for a chat or cruise. Wickford is a full-amenity, small colonial town
thats high on the list of many cruisers. And
its just across the bay from Newport. Give
us a holler at cynmello@yahoo.com or mojena@uri.edu.
Richard &
Cynthia Sinterra KK42.91

Sinterra
Under Wraps